There is really only one thing that changes ph of your water, and that’s flow rate.

Sure, higher electricity in the cell will give a higher pH but it will also be a less stable output because fundamentally it’s the minerals in the incoming water that facilitate the ionization and output pH.

Electric ionizers have all sorts of buttons and gizmos to increase pH, but flow rate is all that is really needed for normal water. Natural ionizers have only one control; flow rate, and once set, they hardly ever need changing. (Not all natural ionizers have easy flow control. Some rely on adjusting the tap water pressure.) Only a few electric ionizers have inbuilt flow control, and it’s an important advance. It means your pH won’t change if you turn your tap on less than last time.

I find it very difficult on YouTube to not waste buckets of time looking for good content in the hundreds of videos posted about alkaline water and alkalien diet, so I’ve decided to do something about it. I have created my own library of alkaline videos, and I’ve made my own comment on each one so you have a good chance of choosing better and more informing views.

Here it is

Check with your local water supply authority before deciding on what sort of water ionizer to buy.

Electric ionizers concentrate alkaline minerals in your drinking water, so if you already have sufficient alkaline minerals (calcium, magnesium) in your water, concentrating them may not be wise.

Most Natural Ionizers (non-electric) don’t concentrate the alkalis, meaning that if you have high calcium in your water, it will pass through the natural ionizer and you’ll still get it, but not concentrated as in the electrics.

Just because your water has calcium in it doesn’t mean that more is better. If you are after calcium to beat osteoporosis degeneration, take a look at Vitamin K2.